Looking back at the launch of the outstanding copy Patek Philippe.
As early as the 2015 Basel International Watch and Jewellery Show, Patek Philippe launched a Calatrava equipped with travel time, which surprised Patek Philippe lovers. The model 5524G was only available in white gold at the time (at the time). It was 42mm wide. It was part of some vintage pilot watches produced by Patek Philippe in the 1930s. The case has luminous Arabic numerals and is decorated with a deep matte blue dial. A pilot-inspired cell phone equipped with Patek Philippe’s clever travel time complications.
With the special lock crown and brown leather strap, the instant feedback resonated with people. Therefore, for the “Letter to the Editor” post published in April 2015, we interviewed three real experts from Patek Philippe ( Including our own Ben Clymer) their thoughts on this unexpected retro style design. Now, about five years later, the 5524G has proven to be a popular model of the brand – so where did the experts fall in 2015?
Patek Philippe 6301P Grande E Petite Sonnerie, second jump
Patek Philippe’s first independent Grande et Petite Sonnerie.
New reference. Patek Philippe’s 6301P is a watch that surprised me. If someone asked me at an unsuspecting moment, if Patek Philippe had ever made a large and small commemorative watch, repeating the minute watch, I might say “yes” without thinking about it. Of course, the company will definitely put complications on the watch. The most worth mentioning is that one of the super complex functions of the watch master is a very complex watch released by Patek Philippe in 2014. This is a complex and amazing museum, but it also brings many innovations to the vocabulary of the watch. .
The Carillon Master has two dials, 1,580 parts, 20 different complications (including a minute repeater), and in its original version, customers should not expect changes to its 2.5 million Swiss francs. Since its inception, Patek Philippe has been paying dividends with less complicated hours, which to some extent allowed the innovation of F1 cars to finally penetrate the production model (although the analogy is imprecise, because the watch penetrates the innovation into the model) itself Not the daily driver of the proletariat). The watches announced by Patek Philippe today are the beneficiaries of some of these inventions. This is the referee. In 6301, Grande Et Petite Sonnerie-actually the first watch, from Patek Philippe, this is an independent large and small strike timepiece with a minute repeater.
Grande et petite sonnerie is an extremely rare complication in watches, but it is also a rare complication due to its huge and almost intractable complexity. The challenge of shrinking such a complication strike series to the size that the watch wears is very difficult (for the end customer, let alone expensive, this may be related to its later appearance in the history of watches and it The complexity of it) did not debut until 1992, for which we would like to thank Philippe Dufour. Since then, few companies have tried to manufacture them, and like repeaters, grande et petite sonnerie refused to industrialize. They can produce on almost anything similar to an industrial scale with too much handwork and adjustments, and it seems likely to do so in the foreseeable future.
In the watch industry, Grande and small watches usually have a minute repeater function (hey, a dime, a lot of dollars). The loud and small sound will pass or pass in the full-stroke mode, in other words, it will sound at the hour and quarter of the hour. In the small strike (small sound wave) mode, it will only strike for a few hours, and the watch repeater usually also has a “silent” mode, in which case the passing strike will not make a sound at all. In contrast, whenever the slider or button is pressed, the complication of the minute repeater triggers the “on-demand” selection of the hour, the quarter hour after the hour, and the minute after the most recent quarter hour. . As early as 2013, HODINKEE had the opportunity to record all the repeaters in the Patek Philippe portfolio at an event in New York. This has always been (for me) one of the most fascinating content we have ever produced.
From the appearance, the new 6301P is a return to Patek Philippe. The company has been experimenting with design in recent years (anyway, for Patek Philippe), but 6301P has almost no extra decorations-for example, unlike the original version of the beautifully carved Grandmaster Chime, to be honest, considering the same complexity My watch, I don’t mind at all. But then again, I am not a customer of this kind of watch, so I said nothing (but never say forever). The details on the platinum case are more or less restricted to necessities – there is a button on the crown for the repeater, and the case strap has a slide for selecting the tapping mode.
There is an uninterrupted groove on the edge of the case, which extends from the lugs to the edge of the case itself, which adds a bit of depth to the program and helps to visually reduce the originally bulky design-concave frame The same is true for contours. If Patek Philippe enthusiasts are familiar with the design, there is a reason-it is reminiscent of the 5370P chronograph, with which the 6301P shares a platinum case, feu black enamel dial, precious gue Arabic numerals, chemin-de-minutes The distance-and the recessed bezel and the recessed, polished side of the case (you can’t help but think that the 5370P and 6301P can be made into two very beautiful watches).
The diameter is 44.8mm x 12mm, which is a larger diameter, but not too thick watch, especially considering its complexity. The movement itself is the new Patek Philippe GS 36-750 PS IRM movement, which measures 37mm x 7.5mm-but in a narrow area, there is still a lot of work to be done, in about a minute. There is also a small detail on the case, which is set with a diamond between the lugs, which is the usual practice of all Patek Philippe platinum watches today. I think we usually find it at 6:00, but of course, the position is already occupied in the function slide. The dial is a lovely thing-black grand enamel enamel with a golden base, slender and thin leaf-shaped hands-surprisingly, they are shiny.
This surprised me very much-after all, in the past, the whole point of chime complications was to let the car owner find out the time after dark (after this incandescent light era, it is easy to forget the time before the electric light., damn day after dark It’s dark. This decision may first cause the traditionalist how to call-the light on the clock, what is this?-But at the same time, if you think about it, it’s a strange feeling. After all, it may not be necessary. Only rely on the reporting system to indicate the time in the dark, otherwise the strike train may be exhausted, or you may want to know the time without knowing it when the repeater is activated. Know, it is approximately between 12:15 and 12:30 In short, the choice is always good, because under any circumstances (especially during the day), the luminous application is hardly noticed, so it will hardly hinder enjoying the beauty of the watch. Why not have All modern conveniences?
Keep moving. The GS 36-750 PS IRM movement has a 3-day power reserve for full travel, while the 24-hour power reserve is in full travel mode. Like a large strike aaa replica watches, there is an independent barrel for starting work and moving trains (the crown winds the mainspring of the starting train and the mainspring of the mainspring in one direction; there are two mainsprings). Each train per barrel, a total of four). The movement beats three gongs, which are adjusted to low, mid and high pitches. In the general strike mode, the hours are struck on the lowest pitch gong, and the quarter is struck in a triple strike. Who can remember that the last hour of strike was 3:45 in the morning? ). In the mini-strike mode, only a few hours were struck. By the way, in the general strike mode, you have a total of 1,056 strikes in 24 hours. Naturally, they must all be accurate. I vividly remember going to a factory, visiting a factory that was evaluating magnificent watches, and it was obvious. To evaluate the functions of the majestic watch, you must listen to every beep every hour and every quarter. Within 24 hours, if only one is closed, the bottom cover will fall off (I think, there are some curses).
The speed of the striking work is controlled by a centrifugal mute regulator, and the striking, gong and hammer can be seen through the bottom cover. The actual percussion works are on the side of the dial, so it is invisible. Of course, this mechanism can also be understood, which is understandable, but doing so too much will make the watch almost illegible. In any case, I always feel that although it is nice to see a little bit behind the case With curtains, we can all have a little more mystery in our lives. If you want more mystery, Patek Philippe also offers a solid platinum back cover. The movement has some modern features-Spiromax hairspring-but in general, what you see on the case back is the traditional Geneva high-end movement finish: round enamel, polished sides, cream Geneva stripes, Black polished all-steel, mirror-bright countersunk hole, the entire 9 yards.
Some patents of Carillon Master have also entered the GS 36-750 PS IRM movement. One of them has to do with the mechanical separation of traveling trains from traveling trains-usually in large timekeeping watches, they remain mechanically connected even in silent mode, but in the Chime master movement and now the GS 36-750 PS IRM The movement is completely decoupled, thereby reducing power consumption and helping to achieve a 72-hour power reserve. Another patent is for a single switch that selects all three trigger modes.
The last very unusual feature is the seconds display. For this movement, Patek Philippe actually uses an instant jump second mechanism, that is, dead jump second. (Although I feel a bit sensitive to avoid using the term-many brands refer to euphemistic complications, including Rolex used with Tru-Beat-I also understand it; let’s face it, boredom is not a proper term. This is An interesting and unusual choice-this complication seems simple, but it is quite complicated to implement, which is very suitable for the discreet performance of the swiss replica watches usa. This makes me want to be helpful, because, of course, what you want to see is The strike begins at the exact moment when the second hand jumps from 59 to 60-I bet, but I still like to see it all.
The jumping seconds device is driven away by a four-wheel movement and has two silicon parts-in this case, it can be used for non-lubricated functions, and because of its light weight, both are important for this complexity. The movement is very fast (oil on the two components will cause resistance). In 2014, I also saw this special jumping second mechanism in the reference materials. 5275, this is a watch that jumps hours, minutes and seconds. According to Patek Philippe, the integration of the stopwatch display into the GS 36-750 PS IRM movement proved to be one of the greater technical problems faced when designing watches-the Grandmaster Chime, which originated from the strike, did not run the stopwatch. Therefore, it is necessary to figure out how to integrate from a blank sheet of paper.
Patek announced the move as an “on-demand price”, but since their speed control complexity is at the top of their complexity,…I don’t even want to guess (and it makes no sense). This is one of the most attractive new complications of Patek Philippe for some time-very delicate design, restrained and elegant appearance, and has many functions (including jumping seconds), even in the case of it belongs to the rare category. Make it sublimate. The platinum watch movement should also be full of confidence, because its density and structure tend to destroy the sound, so it is usually not the watchmaker’s preferred watch movement, but it is true that Patek Philippe has gained the most in terms of acoustics. Speaking, it is derived from this difficult material. For all magnificent things, to some extent, this is obviously reassuring-a clear expression of pride in Patek Philippe’s past, and confidence in Patek Philippe as both a haven for traditionalists and a center of innovation.
Patek Philippe ref. 6301P Grande et Petite Sonnerie, Répétition Minutes Avec Seconde Morte: case, 950 platinum, 44.8 x 12mm; not waterproof, moisture and dust proof, sapphire front and back, and optional solid platinum back cover. Movement, GS 36-750 PS IRM. Manually wound mechanical movement with 703 parts. Big and small sonata, three repeaters of three clocks. Jump seconds. Strike mode indicator (small sonata, ensemble sonata, mute). Power reserve indicator for sports and strikes. 37mm x 7.5mm, used for the 72-hour power reserve of moving trains, and used for Sonnerie’s 24-hour power reserve in general strike mode. 25,200 vph frequency, running 95 jewels; Gyromax hairspring with Spiromax hairspring. Not a limited edition, but production is very limited.