The new Breitling Chronomat is a multi-sport watch reminiscent of the return of mechanical timing technology in the 1980s and Breitling’s role as a chronograph pioneer. The unique Rouleaux bracelet brings a sleek retro look to the wrist, while the modernly made Calibre 01 points the way to the future. We reviewed this feature from our March-April 2021 issue.
This model has an important place in the history of Breitling. Unique elements are rearranged. Combined with the modern technology embodied in the movement, the Chronomat has developed into a multifunctional sports watch.
When Breitling reintroduced the Chronomat in 1984, it sent a clear signal – it heralded the return of the mechanical watch, which had all but disappeared during the quartz crisis of the 1970s. Breitling used the name “Chronomat” as early as the 1940s, as a combination of “chronograph” for stopwatch functions and “mathematics” for slide rules, which later became the hallmark of aviation chronographs. But in 1984, the term acquired additional meaning: the first two syllables continued to refer to “chronograph” to denote the stop-time function, but now the third syllable alluded to “automatic,” denoting the mechanical automaton that drives the timepiece core. The era when quartz watches became mainstream. Originally, the Valjoux Calibre 7750, introduced in 1973, provided the power, production of which was later resumed by ETA.
Another quarter century passed before Breitling introduced its own chronograph movement. Calibre 01 debuted in the famous Chronomat in 2009. This robust movement is almost taken for granted today and has been modified in various ways in numerous Breitling chronographs, so we would like to remind our readers of some extraordinary qualities. best replica watch site
Movement for everyday use
The Calibre 01 is a column-wheel chronograph with vertical coupling. Thanks to the modern technology used in the production of modern column wheels, manufacturing them is much less of a task than before. The vertical coupling ensures a clean start of the stopwatch function without the infamous initial quiver of the passing second hand. Unlike traditional systems with separate elapsed hour counters, the coupler here itself creates a connection to the elapsed seconds, minutes and hours counters. The patented self-centering system of the heart-shaped lever for the zeroing function is also innovative. This mechanism also ensures that the chronograph cannot be damaged by mishandling, such as triggering a reset to zero command without first stopping the chronograph. The calendar mechanism can also prevent misuse. It is designed so that the user can reset the date at any time of the day or night without damaging the mechanism. The basis for this is an almost instantaneous date change: our test watch automatically advanced to the new date approximately three minutes before midnight. With an eye toward future GMT and World Time models, the basic structure of the date display supports the option to reset the date backwards via the manual set function.
The B01 chronograph movement is Breitling’s first modern in-house movement. It has a thickness of 7.2mm, a diameter of 30mm and is COSC certified.
The Caliber 01 in the Chronomat not only offers a power reserve of 70 hours, which is considered the most advanced among modern movements, but also has a chronometer certificate, like all Breitling watches. Whether the mainspring is fully wound or has some slack, and whether the chronograph is on or off, can be seen through the sapphire crystal of the case’s screw-down back.
for measuring short intervals
The front consists of a solid stainless steel case measuring 42.94mm in diameter and 15.23mm in height, with a rotating bezel that snaps into place in half-minute increments and can only be rotated counterclockwise. This feature – combined with a pressure resistance of 20 bar (200 meters) and a screw-down onion-shaped crown – makes the Chronomat a diving watch. Four unique cursors return from the 1980s. Not only do they make the bezel easy to grip and therefore safe to use, but they are also interchangeable. It takes a little effort to remove and reinsert them, but if the 15-minute and 45-minute cursors are swapped, the rotating ring can be used as a countdown bezel. Real-time calibration on the upper part of the bezel makes the countdown easy to read. In the past, the Chronomat’s countdown function was used by yachting enthusiasts.
Two oval pushers operate the chronograph, and the screw-down onion crown ensures water resistance to 200 meters.
If you look closely below the tachymeter scale, you will see red numbers and strokes dividing the minutes into 100 increments. Connoisseurs will recognize this detail from earlier Breitling models. It is useful for industrial timekeeping because it displays minutes in decimal format. For example, it shows the weekday as 7.75 hours instead of 7 hours and 45 minutes. Combined with the central seconds hand, for example, the elapsed interval of 36 seconds can also be considered as 0.6 minutes, during which the car is travelling at an average speed of 100 kilometers per hour. Breitling fake
The elapsed seconds are displayed precisely by a slender red hand that extends precisely to the flange and ends with a kite-shaped tip filled with luminous material. As a chronograph pioneer, all other hands related to the stopwatch function also glow in the dark. The indicators for the regular time display, including the continuously running seconds hand and the faceted hour appliqués, are equally illuminated – a welcome but rarely found detail.
Breitling’s latest generation of the Chronomat comes with the brand’s typical Rouleaux bracelet, consisting of long cylindrical links with rounded tips (hence the “bullet bracelet” moniker).
Sporty all-rounder with retro style and modern design
Two oval pushers trigger the functions of the chronograph. Their styling is modern and, unlike their predecessors from previous models, they are no longer screwed. This modern detail contrasts with the retro feel added by the one-piece Rouleaux bracelet, which returns for the first time since 1984. The rollers are oval cylinders with a brushed matte finish; their edges, like the connecting elements, are polished. The scroll wheel leads to a functional double folding clasp with lateral pushers. Therefore, the Chronomat 01 meets the requirements of a sporty all-rounder right down to the last detail.
Manufacturer: Breitling Chronometrie SA, Allée du Laser 10, 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
Reference number: AB0134101C1A1
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph (seconds in the center, 30-minute and 12-minute counters with hours), date, tachymeter scale, screw-down crown, single unit that locks in place and has interchangeable cursors rotating bezel
Movement: Breitling 01, automatic, 28,800 vph, 47 jewels, COSC certified, copper beryllium balance, Nivarox hairspring, fine adjustment via eccentric screws, Kif shock absorption, 70 hours power reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height = 7.20 mm
Case: Stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal above dial, anti-reflective treatment on both sides, sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistant to 200 meters
Strap and Buckle: Stainless Steel Rouleaux Bracelet, Double Folding Stainless Steel Buckle
Rate results (deviation in seconds for 24 hours, fully wound / after 24 hours):
+0.8 on wrist
Up -0.8 / -1.1
Down +1.5 / +1.1 Winding
-1.0 / -2.2
Bottom String +2.4 / +1.5
Top left +0.5 / – 0.3
Maximum deviation 3.4 / 3.7
Average deviation +0.5 / -0.2
Flat position 315° / 303°
Hanging position 284° / 266°
Dimensions: Diameter = 42.94mm, Lug Width = 22mm, Height = 15.23mm, Weight = 200.0g
Variations: Silver, Bronze or Black Dial (Ref. AB0134101G1A1, AB0134101K1A1, AB0134101B1A1); Bentley Edition (Ref. AB01343A1L1A1); Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition (Ref. AB01344A1C1A1); Rose Gold or Steel and Rose Gold Versions